Saturday, April 14, 2012

Not Just Another Day on the Bike...

I went for a bike ride today.  I had decided to go out to Ajuterique and Lejamani, and then on a bit more toward La Paz.-- pretty much the same route as last week, except that I would ride a bit further toward La Paz before turning around and heading back.

The day started out just like last week.  No big deal.  But then, less than 5 miles into the ride I started getting a few wolf whistles and shouts from guys as they would pass in trucks.  I kept riding.  More whistles.  Some "Hey, baby"s.  There was also the usual "have a good day" and "adios", which, even though it means 'good-bye', is also used as a hello greeting in passing. It sure seemed that there were a lot more men out today, and that translated to a lot more "guys being guys" stuff.

I rode through Ajuterique and on to Lejamani.  At about the 10-mile point, I started heading out of town and on toward La Paz.  I had planned to go until I hit around 12 miles and then turn back.

Well, I got a bit more than a mile out of town and I noticed that a motorcycle was coming up behind me, slowly, and much too close to my side of the road.  (Yes, I ride with a mirror.)  I mentally braced myself for him to say something as he passed me, knowing that he would be close enough for me to reach out and clock him with my left arm.  I was totally unprepared for what actually happened:

The dude, the jerk, the slimeball reached out with his right hand while passing and slapped my rear!  Well, actually, he didn't slap it as much as he let his hand linger.  The #$%&* copped a feel! I was mad!  "¡Qué bárbaro!" I yelled out.  'How rude!'  He turned around, made a gesture with his left hand as he did one of those kisses like when the food is really good.  I shouted it out again, "¡Qué bárbaro!"  He just laughed and kept riding, speeding up his motorcycle.

I was seething mad!  I honestly can't remember the last time I've been that mad.  It's a good thing he didn't come around for another pass, because I probably would have blinded the guy.  I kept riding, trying to calm down.  I wasn't scared, didn't feel in danger or anything, just ticked off beyond belief.

A few minutes later, before I turned around to head back, I noticed another motorcycle coming up right behind me, also driving slowly, hugging the side of the road.  "That's it!" I thought.  "This is not happening twice today."  I reached down and pulled out a full water bottle with my left hand, wielding it at my side as an obvious weapon. I flexed my water bottle-laden arm as menacingly as I could, hoping that the dude realized I was not to be trifled with.  I was fully prepared to clock the guy right there, in the middle of nowhere.

But, as the guy passed, I saw he was wearing a nice white shirt and a tie.  He was carrying a laptop bag or briefcase.  He looked at me, but didn't say anything at all, probably realizing that even a "hello" might be mistaken for anything else and get him a bottle upside his head. After he passed me, he pulled in front of me, but didn't speed up.  I realized that he couldn't; his motorcycle was probably broken.

As soon as I was at 12 miles, which was only a minute or two later, I turned around and headed back toward Lejamani. I figured I'd much rather deal with wolf whistles and comments than have my butt slapped again.  Especially when no one was around.  Shortly after I turned around, I saw two more guys on motorcycles also dressed in shirts and ties, going in the same direction as the guy who had passed me.  Maybe they were going to the same place?

In Lejamani I stopped at the same pulpería as last week.  I had sufficiently calmed down and had even had some friendly greetings as I passed some people right outside of town.  I talked to the people in the pulpería and the woman who runs it made sure that one of the other ladies working there knew I was from Comayagua and rode my bike all the way.

The 8.5 miles from Lejamani back to the main highway go by quite fast since most of the way is a very, very slight downhill.  As I was cruising I started thinking: I just turned 50 this week, but somehow managed to get more whistles and "woo hoos" or whatevers, than I ever have on the bike here.  They're just seeing a female on a bike.  I think most of them would be totally amazed, and probably grossed out, to realize they just whistled at a 50-year-old.

Oh, and after talking to Trifi and telling him and Erica about what happened today, I now have a few new choice, non-cussing but still insulting, things to say if I ever need it.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

La Via Dolorosa...

Shortly before 9:00 am on Good Friday, a mass is held in one of the Catholic churches that is a block away from the Cathedral.  At 9:00, the processional begins to leave the church, recreating the Via Dolorosa, the way of suffering.

Leading the way is Jesus, carrying a cross.  Jesus is also accompanied by several "little Jesuses" -- young boys (5-7 years old) -- who are also carrying crosses and wearing crowns of thorns.
Jesus at the front of the processional.

Jesus is followed by several priests and altar boys.  A few of them have the incense burners.
Near the front of the processional.

Then comes the cardinal.  He is singing, and leading the people in singing.  He also stops at many of the alfombras and blesses them -- if the group that created them has paid for them to be blessed.  If the alfombra is blessed, the whole group following will walk over the alfombra, which of course ruins it in no time.  But that is part of the sacrifice.
Leading singing and then blessing various alfombras.
Next comes the big float.  There's no other word for it, really.  That's what it is.
This float came out of the church doors that are in the background.
It takes a while to get the float out of the church, safely under the power wires and then maneuvering a turn.
Making the turn amidst all the people.

They use a pole to slightly lift the power wires.
A marching band follows behind the float.  It always sounds eerily like the band in the wedding scene in The Godfather when Michael Corleone is in Sicily and gets married.  A somber march.    As the whole procession passes by, onlookers and tourists will get in line and become part it.  They will stop at each of the stations of the cross and there will be recreations of the scenes depicted.
Getting ready for the 2nd station of the cross.

Another station.
If the cardinal blesses the alfombra, he and the entire group will walk over the carpet as they proceed.  If it is not blessed, the cardinal and entourage walk on one side or the other of it.  Only the float will walk over it since that's unavoidable.
This is an example of when the bishop does not walk on the carpet.
 After the procession passes, many people will reach down and scoop up or pick up some of the remaining sawdust.

One of these years, I'd like to actually help make an alfombra.  I'm sure it's a bit of a party atmosphere out there.





Monday, April 9, 2012

Las Alfombras de Comayagua...

I love Las Alfombras, the sawdust carpets that are created for Good Friday every year.  Groups and families start late Thursday night, well, actually, early Friday morning creating colorful carpets that will soon be history.

One of my favorite things to do is go downtown early on Good Friday to take photos.  I try to leave my house by 6:30am, or earlier.  Why?  Why do I get up so early on a day off?  Well, there are a couple of reasons: The walk downtown is peaceful and I get to see a few alfombras that are not part of the main processional.  I also get to see people still working on the alfombras.  I get to take pictures before it gets too crowded.  And, I get to enjoy the cool of the morning.

The main 'ingredient' of the carpets is sawdust.  Colored sawdust.  But other ingredients, mostly natural, are also used: pine needles, tree bark, salt, egg shells, beans, rice, stones, flowers, plastic flowers, etc., etc.  Elaborate designs are created.  And various templates are made. 

The results?  Well, judge for yourself:

I really love the use of an irregular border -- of flowers.

Lots of details.

This alfombra is still in process.  Here's an example of templates that are made.

This one was my favorite of the day and it used lots of different materials.

At 9:00am the procession of the Via Dolorosa starts.  They leave one Catholic church and walk through town, over the various alfombras and past the stations of the cross.  They end up at the Cathedral.  I'll post some pictures from it tomorrow.  I don't have many, because I never stay long for that part.  By then, it's hot and the whole procession takes several hours.